Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Appliance Repair Do's and Don'ts

Hello readers! Hope you had a wonderful Independence day, here's a quick post of some appliance repair do's and don'ts. Hope this helps!

When a household appliance stops working, or has other issues, most people start to panic and get all in a tizzy. When this happens, they end up making a wrong decision that results in costing them money, time, and creating a whole ordeal about it. If you can follow some relatively simple guidelines when you are faced with this problem you can save yourself a headache, some cash, and also your investment!

A broken or non-functioning appliance can mean several things. It could be just a minor pain in the rear end, or it could sometimes be a safety risk. Too many times we see homeowners call an appliance repair person out to their house to fix something simple. So if you have a dryer that isn't turning on, or a refrigerator that won't keep cold, just keep in mind these simple appliance repair do's and don'ts.

DON'T: Be in a hurry to purchase a new appliances at the first sign of trouble. It's almost always more affordable to repair your appliance rather than purchasing a new one.

DO: Refer to your owner's manual as soon as you notice your appliance acting strangely. Delays can cause more damage to the appliance, and it just means you will have to deal with the faulty appliance for a longer period of time. If you can find out what is wrong with your appliance quickly, it will just make it easier to complete a successful repair. If you cannot find the answer to your problem in the owner's manual, then it may be time to contact a service person.


DON'T: Fix the problem yourself if you haven't done any repairs before. Just reading the manual is not an adequate substitute for professional training. Don't open up your machine right away and start messing with things. That can be extremely dangerous, you could damage your appliance and yourself severely if you don't know what you are doing. If you are unsure about the repair, call a technician to take a look at the machine.


DON'T: Try to create a temporary solution. Using duct tape and other odds and ends around the house to try and fix the problem can also result in serious injury. Homemade fixes can damage your appliance further and create safety risks too. So be sure to only use proper parts and tools when you are doing a do-it-yourself fix.

DO: Remember that your appliances need to be cleaned of lint, debris, and dirt at least once every six months. This preventative maintenance can help you from having the same problem with your appliance in the future.

DO: Call a professional technician and request emergency repair if you suspect a gas leak, or risk of a fire. If you think that you could be in any type of dangerous situation because of your appliance, it is always better to be safe than sorry.

If you can stick to these guidelines, it will help you keep your investment for a long time. I hope this post has helped you learn about some appliance repair do's and don'ts.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

How a Dishwasher Works

This is a minorly lengthy read, but I hope this blog post will help you learn how your dishwasher works! Thanks for reading!
The first section of the dishwasher I will explain is the motor and pump. Your dishwasher probably has one motor which is attached to a pump. The pump forces water into the spray arms. During your dishwasher’s drain cycle it also pushes water out and into the drain. The motor is located behind a panel on the underside of the dishwasher. Some models have reversible motors and others do not. If your dishwasher has a reversible motor it is mounted vertically in the center of the bottom of the dishwasher, and the shaft is pointed up. The pump is attached on top of the motor, and also attached to the underside of the dishwasher. When the dishwasher pumps water into the spraying arm it runs one way, and while the pump is draining the motor runs the opposite way. If your motor runs only one way, it is mounted horizontally, the shaft is pointing sideways and it’s located near the middle of the bottom of the dishwasher. The top of the pump is also mounted underneath the dishwasher. When the motor rotates it pumps water to the spraying arms. Another mechanical arm activates to pump the water to the drain. There are two other older styles of motor systems which are no longer being made. One is a system which uses belts, and the other is a motor which is mounted vertically and uses a separate valve which is used for the drain cycle.

Next, I will explain the controls, switches, valves, and solenoids; a dishwasher has from three to six of those components. The timer is located behind the control panel at the top of the dishwasher or behind a lower panel. It can be either a mechanical device, or it could be fully electronic with a digital display. The timer runs the dishwasher in a set pattern; it also provides the electricity to different components at a specific time and for a set period of time. The selector switch lets you choose different wash cycles, drying cycles, temperature of the wash/rinse; this switch also tells the timer which cycle options to engage. The water inlet valve is located at the bottom right or left side of the dishwasher, behind the panel. This valve controls the water flow for the wash cycle. The hot water supply and a tube attached to a side of the dishwasher is what this valve is connected to. When the timer sends electricity to the water inlet valve it will open up and let water into the dishwasher. The valve stops when the timer stops sending electricity to it, or the float switch is tripped. Now the float switch is a safety mechanism to keep your dishwasher from over filling. When the water level in your dishwasher rises, so does the float; when it gets to a certain height it will activate a switch which cuts the electricity to the water valve. The soap and rinse aid dispenser work the same way, when the timer says it is time for the soap or rinse aid to be released into the dishwasher it sends electricity to a switch which opens up the dispenser. The thermostat protects the dishes, dishwasher, and you by turning off the heat element that warms the water or air in the dishwasher. The thermostat will reset automatically when the temperature falls to a cooler temperature. The door switch shuts off the dishwasher if the door is open. The drying fan is beneath the dishwasher, and it blows heated air into the dishwasher to dry your dishes. The heating element heats the wash and rinse water to the correct temperature. It also helps in drying the dishes. Also, some models of dishwashers have an extra heat element to warm the air blown into the dishwashers for drying purposes.
Next, of course, is the inside of the dishwasher. The inside of the dishwasher is where the dirty dishes go. It contains the racks, spray arms, the mechanism that sprays water at your dishes, top part of the pump assembly, and water filter.

Frequently Asked Refrigerator Questions

Here are some of the most commonly asked questons about refrigerator problems, and answers.
The first question is: Why is my refrigerator not cold enough? Answer: Here are some simple, quick things to check for. Are the lights turning off when your refrigerator door is closed? Are the fridge and freezer doors closing all the way so the gaskets seal? Is the freezer fan running? Is the condenser fan running? Do your condenser coils need a good cleaning? You can check if your fridge light is turning off by standing in front of your refrigerator and open the door quickly, you will be able to see the light turn on then. To check the gaskets, shut a piece of paper in the door, and try to slide it out. If it doesn’t pull out then your door gaskets should be fine. To check if the fans are running, just listen to the machine and you can hear them run.

The next frequently asked refrigerator question is: My refrigerator is leaking water inside underneath the crispers, where is it coming from? Answer: Usually this is the defrost water that is leaking into your fridge. Once a day the fridge turns off and the defrost heater in the freezer melts the frost, turning it to water. If the defrost drain is clogged with bits of food or other debris, the water is unable to reach the drain and that is when it spills out into the refrigerator and pools underneath the crisper bins. If your refrigerator has an icemaker, inspect the icemaker to make sure that the fill tube is not leaking.

Another frequently asked refrigerator question is: why does my refrigerator feel warm on the front? Answer: Older refrigerators have heaters on the edge of the cabinet to prevent moisture build up, especially in the summer. These heaters had an on/off switch so you could turn it on in humid weather. In newer style refrigerators, the manufacturers had to stop using the electric heaters. So they decided to run condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the heaters used to be. If you feel the fridge getting warm on the opening of the door you should first clean your condenser coils; if they are dirty that can cause the tubing to be warmer than normal. Check and clean the condenser fan; if the fan motor is too slow it can get very hot to the touch. If your condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running, check the temperatures of the fresh food and freezer section. If the refrigerator is not operating well and the temperatures are warmer than normal inside of your refrigerator that can cause you to feel more warmth than normal.
Thanks for reading!

Thursday, June 2, 2011

How to Troubleshoot a Gas Dryer – Part One

Here is the first part of a two post series on how to troubleshoot your gas dryer. Happy reading!

If you are having problems with your gas dryer, here is a handy guide on how to troubleshoot your gas dryer, and get it in working order again. Remember that before you do any repairs on your appliances, to disconnect it from the power source. If you don’t do that, then you could risk serious damages to yourself and your dryer. Here are the problems that I will cover the problems and solutions to in this article: dryer doesn’t work at all, there’s no heat, and if your dryer dries too slow.
If your gas dryer does not work at all you can check the power coming from your house, the door switch, timer, and thermal fuse. To check if there is power, first see if your dryer is plugged in. (Yes, it might sound stupid, but it happens more often than you’d think!) Does the power outlet where the dryer is plugged in work? To test that, plug a lamp or something else in the outlet and see if it works. Also, check the circuit breaker and see if something has tripped a circuit or blown a fuse. If your door switch is faulty, then that could be a reason why your gas dryer doesn’t work at all. Your door switch is located inside the dryer main housing next to the door frame. If the part tests out bad, then you should replace it. Next, you can check the timer to see if that is the problem, basically if there are open contacts in the timer it won’t work. Lastly, you can check the thermal fuse. The fuse is actually a safety precaution measure in the dryer; it will blow if your dryer overheats. This fuse is located on the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. If your fuse has blown, and you test it with ah ohm meter, it won’t have continuity. If this is what is causing your dryer to not work at all, you will need to replace the fuse because it cannot be reset.
If your dryer is not heating, you can check the igniter, gas valve coils, and the thermal fuse. Most gas dryers use an electronic type of igniter to ignite the gas coming in from the gas valve. If it glows a bright orange, it is working properly. When your igniter burns out, the dryer will still tumble your clothes, but there won’t be heat because the gas cannot ignite. If your igniter is burned out you will need to replace it. The igniter is located inside the dryer housing, near the front and towards the bottom. The igniter is usually in a metal cone shaped tube. It’s mounted to the far end of the burner tube and it should have some wires attached to it, or to the tension bracket. The next thing you can test are the gas valve coils. The first thing to watch for is the igniter, if it glows orange and then shuts off without igniting the gas, then there may be some faulty coils on your gas valve. When these coils get energized, they open the gas valve. If they are faulty then the valve won’t open and the gas can’t ignite. If this is the case with your dryer, it’s best to replace all of the coils at the same time. To check the thermal fuse, you can follow the exact instructions I stated in the previous paragraph.
If your dryer takes too long to dry your clothes you can check the vent, the flame sensor/gas valve, internal ductwork, and the cycling thermostat. Most of the time there is some sort of clog inside the venting that goes from your dryer to outside of the house. For a dryer to heat up, the duct has to be clear of any sort of clog or lint. To clean this out, you can use a vacuum. Also, vent cleaning should be done at least once a year, if you do laundry often. Next, you can check the flame sensor/gas valve. The flame sensor is next to the igniter. The gas may shut off before the cycle is finished if the flame sensor is defective. Sometimes one of the electrical coils on the gas valve fails. If this happens, the flame will shut off before your thermostat can send a signal, which will make the drying time a lot longer. If the sensor or the coils are the problem, replace them. If your dryer’s internal ductwork gets clogged, it won’t be able to run correctly. Most of the time you will need to disassemble your dryer to reach the ductwork, to clean out the clog. You can check this quickly by sliding out your lint filter, and use a flashlight to look inside the duct. If you see a buildup of lint, you should clean it out with a vacuum. However, if you can’t remove the clog with a vacuum, you might call a serviceman to do that for you. The cycling thermostat is not a common reason why your dryer would take a long time to dry clothes, however it does happen sometimes. If this thermostat breaks, it can cause your dryer to heat improperly. You should replace it if it is faulty.
In summary, if this guide did not help you fix your problem, you should contact an appliance technician to repair it. However, I hope this article was handy in giving you some information on how to troubleshoot your gas dryer in the future. In my next article I will help troubleshoot some more common gas dryer problems.

How to Troubleshoot Your Gas Dryer – Part Two

Here is part two of how to troubleshoot your gas dryer, this is a continuation of another article about this subject.
In part two of how to troubleshoot your gas dryer I will address these common gas dryer problems: your dryer won’t tumble, if your dryer seems to run forever, if your dryer is noisy, and if the light doesn’t work. Read on and I’ll explain how to troubleshoot and fix these gas dryer problems.
If your dryer won’t tumble, you can check these three things: the belt, the motor, and the door switch. Dryers have a belt that turns the clothes drum that is called the drive belt. If this belt breaks the drum will stop turning. If this is why your dryer won’t tumble, then you should replace the belt and also the idler pulley because they tend to break at around the same time. Here is how to test your motor: if the motor only hums when you push the start button, your motor could be burned out. First remove the dryer belt, then check for any obstructions in the blower fan housing, and then manually rotate the motor shaft. If you cannot rotate it, or if it is very stiff, and the blower fan is clear of any obstructions then you will need to replace your motor. If your motor will turn freely, then run the motor with the belt removed and the blower still in place. If the motor runs with the belt removed, there could be a problem with the pulley or your dryer drum. Try to turn the drum by hand. If it’s hard to move, try to fix any problem with the rollers, pulley, rear bearing, or the front glides, put your dryer back together and try it again. If the motor hums but it doesn’t turn with the belt removed (but you can still move it by hand) you will usually need to replace your motor or the motor start capacitor. Your dryer will not start at all if you have a faulty door switch. This switch is located inside of the dryer’s main housing next to the door frame. If this switch is defective you will need to replace it.
Here’s how to troubleshoot your gas dryer if it seems to run forever. This could because of a clogged dryer vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer might have an automatic cycle which turns the dryer off once your clothes are dry. It does that with a special type of thermostat, or a moisture sensor system. Here is what should be happening during the automatic cycle: the thermostat will tell your dryer to heat up until the dryer reaches a preset temperature. When the dryer reaches that temperature, the thermostat then tells the timer to begin advancing. If you have a moisture sensor system then the timer will advance once it senses the moisture content of the clothes is low enough. The timer will run until the inside of the dryer is cool, and then the thermostat tells the timer to stop and tells the dryer to heat up again. This cycle should continue until the clothes are dry. If your vent is clogged the dryer might not be able to reach that preset temperature. No signal is sent to the timer, and your dryer will run forever, even if your clothes are dry. To fix this problem you will need to clean out the venting and ductwork with a vacuum.
If your gas dryer is noisy, here is what you can check: the rollers, idler pulley, glides, rear drum bearing, and blower wheel. Most dryers use rollers to support the drum, when these rollers wear out they can be noisy. Replace these as a set if that is the case. The idler pulley keeps tension on the drive belt, and when it wears out it can get noisy as well; replace it if it’s worn out. Plastic glides or nylon glides are located at the front of the clothes drum, they are used for support. If these are worn out, they can make noise and again, you should replace them. Some dryers use a rear center spindle instead of rollers for drum support. The spindle can either be a ball and socket or a shaft through a sleeve type. When these get old and worn out they can create quite a racket; replace them if that is why your dryer is making noise. Lastly, check the blower wheel. The blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the drum, and past the thermostats, and then it goes out the duct. If this is noisy, it could be clogged with lint. Clean out the blower and see if it is still noisy; if it is, replace it.
If your dryer light won’t work here’s what to do. If your dryer has a light on the inside, it probably is just a standard 40-watt appliance bulb. Make sure to double check with your owners manual though. If the light bulb is good, but the light will not come on, check your door switch. When the door is closed the door switch turns off the light and then allows the dryer to start. When the door is open, it turns the light on and it prevents the dryer from starting.
In summary, I hope part two of this article helped show how to troubleshoot your gas dryer. Keep this guide for troubleshooting your gas dryer handy, in case you come across a problem with your dryer in the future.

How to Troubleshoot and Fix Common Refrigerator Problems

Greetings! Here is a new post about troubleshooting and how to fix some of the most common refrigerator problems. I hope this helps!

When one of your household appliances goes on the fritz, the first step you’ll need to take is to find the root of the problem, and then of course you’ll need to find out how to fix it. I doubt that anytime your appliance has an issue, you would run out to the nearest appliance dealer and purchase a brand new one. In this article I will explain some of the more common refrigerator problems, and how to troubleshoot and fix them. This guide will be generic because most of the refrigerators today are pretty similar. If you get stuck or have an issue with the refrigerant, it’s probably a good idea to just call a service technician instead of trying to do it yourself. Remember though; always unplug your appliance from the power outlet before you do any repairs, doing so could save your life and your appliance. So just read on, and I’ll go through how to troubleshoot and fix some common refrigerator problems.
My compressor doesn’t seem to be running and the light won’t come on. Solution: is there power coming to your fridge? Make sure the fridge is plugged in, and check your circuit breaker to see if it has tripped a circuit. Is the cord damaged, frayed, or loose? If your refrigerator’s power cord is damaged in any way, you should replace it.
The refrigerator light comes on, but the unit doesn’t run. Solution: is your temperature control knob turned down low, or turned off? You should adjust the knob. Is your compressor overheating? You should clean off your refrigerator’s condenser coils. You can use a vacuum or a specially designed coil brush to do this. Tip: you should be cleaning your refrigerator’s coils at least once a year, and if you have pets you should be cleaning them at least three times per year. Is your compressor defective? Call your local service technician to order a new one; it will need a charge of refrigerant. Is the condenser fan faulty? Replace it. How about your temperature control or defrost timer? You can test both of those parts with an ohm meter, if they test badly, you should replace those parts.
Does your refrigerator get too cold, or does it not cool properly? If it gets too cold you can check the temperature control knob first, is it turned up too high? Adjust that. Is your temperature controller faulty? You can test this part, if it is bad you should replace it. If your refrigerator doesn’t cool properly you can again, check the temperature control knob and adjust it accordingly. If you think there might be a refrigerant leak you should call out a service technician. Is your refrigerator door closing all the way? You can inspect the door seal itself for any cracks or tears; if it looks old and worn you should replace the seals. You can also raise or lower the front leveling legs so it closes properly. If your coils are dirty you should clean them, this can cause your fridge to cool improperly. Test your evaporator fan; if it is faulty then you should replace it. Is your evaporator full of ice? First, defrost your refrigerator, then check the defrost timer, the defrost limiter switch, and the defrost heater with your ohm meter.
In summary, the refrigerator is for the most part, a very simple appliance. Many of these common issues can be fixed by anyone with some basic handyman skills and a few tools. If these solutions have not helped fix your problem, it is probably a good idea to call up a service technician. But hopefully this guide has helped you troubleshoot and fix a common refrigerator problem.

Thank you for reading!!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

New Parts Return/Warranty Form

Hello Readers, here's a quick update for you.
If you are having a problem with a part that you ordered, we now have a form on our website http://www.balcum.com - under the customer service tab.
Fill out that form completely, and submit it to our customer service guy. He will respond as soon as he can, and take care of your issue. Remember to please give us the full model number of your appliance, otherwise it will take longer to process a return, refund, or replacement part.
So if you have any questions about our new form, please give us a call at (715) 392-4808 or e-mail us at help@balcum.com
Thank you! :)

Thursday, May 26, 2011

How a Top-Load Washing Machine Works

Here's another post explaining how a top-loading washing machine works, hopefully you get some good info from this post. Thanks again for reading!

Doing the laundry used to be an all-day ordeal, washing every piece of clothing by hand, and then hanging it out to dry. The washing machine has been around since 1691, and the first electric washing machine was advertised for sale in 1904, and in 1947 GE introduced the first top-loading washer. With new advances in technology, we have new features such as: child safety locks, variable temperatures, delay start time, and other options. In this article I won't go into any more detail about the history of washers, but I will keep my promise and explain how a top-loading washing machine works.

The top- loading washer has an inner tub where you put your clothes. That tub has a bunch of little holes in it which lets the water drain into the outer tub. The outer tub is solid and it holds the drained water. In the middle of the tub there is an agitator. The agitator moves in a semi-circle, back and forth, submerging your clothes into the water. This movement helps loosen stains, and also distributes the detergent around evenly. The motor is what moves the agitator during the washing cycle, and also again during the spin cycle. In most styles of front loading washing machines the motor actually can run in two directions; clockwise and counter-clockwise. While the motor is in one direction, it works through a transmission (or clutch) which spins the inside tub up to 800 rotations per minute (rpm). This causes the water, by centrifugal force, to be pressed out of the clothes, and then the water is pumped out of the washer. When the motor is running in the opposite direction, it uses the transmission to move the agitator during its cleaning cycle.

The water inlet valve, or the fill valve, is what controls the temperature of the water that enters the washer. This water valve has three components which are: a hot water solenoid, a cold water solenoid, and a mixing valve body. When electricity flows to either of the solenoids, water pours through the valve and goes into the inside tub. If the electricity stops, then the water will not flow through. This inlet valve also has three hoses attached to it, one for hot water, one for cold water, and one that is directed to the inner tub to fill it with water.

Next, I'll explain the timer and start switch. The timer is usually identified by the biggest knob on the control panel. Sometimes that is not the case; timers can also be an electronic display or a fully electronic interface. The timer basically tells the washer what to do at a certain time and for how long, and it also provides electricity to those components that need it and at a specific time as well. When you set the timer to the cycle which you want to use, you either push or pull the timer knob to start the washer. A top loading washer can also have several selector knobs/switches, which are most often located next to the timer knob. These switches can have several different functions such as: water temperature, water level, spin speed, etc.

Some types of washing machines use what is called a coupler to attach the motor directly to the transmission; it makes the connection without needing a belt. Most other washers use a belt to connect the motor to the pump or transmission. If the tub or agitator were to become jammed, the belt serves as a "weak link", and it would fail, instead of damaging the transmission or other important parts of the washer. The motor can usually start up in less than a second, which is a little harsh for some inner components of a washer, so most washers use an automatic clutch to lessen the effect of the motor starting up. When you lift the lid on a washer, most of the inner parts stop, however, on all machines the spin cycle stops. This brings the drum to a halt, so most washers use a special braking unit which is similar to the brakes of a car.

In summary, I hope after reading this article you have a better understanding on how a front-load washing machine works, and how all the components work together to get your clothes clean.

How a Gas Range Works

Happy Thursday! Here's a short post about how a gas range works. I hope you find it informational! Thank you for reading. :)

Gas ranges are typically more expensive than the electric ones; however, most people prefer to cook on a gas range than on an electric range. You can control the size of the flame quite easily, and you can estimate the temperature by the size of the flame. Also, a gas range will cool down and heat up quite quickly. So that is why most people don't mind spending some extra money for those features. In this article I will explain to you how does a gas range work, so you can make an informed decision next time you need to purchase a range.

You will either need propane or natural gas to run your stove, first of all. The gas then will need to be ignited to create a flame to cook with. This is done by one of three ignition systems: standing pilot ignition, electronic ignition, or the newer-style crystal ignition. Most older gas ranges use the pilot system; basically there is a small constantly-burning flame underneath the center of the cooktop. Then once you turn the burner on, the gas travels through a small size tube to the pilot light. That process ignites the flame; it travels up the tube and ignites the burner. Electric ignition is found in many new style gas ranges. When you turn the knob to light the burner, a transformer and a spark plug generate a spark which then lights the burner, and igniting the gas. The piezoelectric crystal ignition system is less common, and it has a little pin that attaches the crystal to the control knob. When you turn the knob, the small pin bends the crystal. This crystal then creates an electric spark and ignites the burner. That is basically how a gas range works, and next I will explain some safety concerns that you should be aware of when looking to purchase a gas range.

Now that you (hopefully) understand how a gas range works, here are some safety concerns that I feel should be addressed. The first thing I will mention is gas leaks: if you smell gas, you should exit your home immediately. Gas leaks can be extremely dangerous, and life threatening. Refrain from using anything that could ignite the gas, such as: lighters, telephones, and other electronic devices could set off a spark. The next concern I will mention is to make sure your gas range is properly installed and hooked up to the gas line. You can circumvent the problem of a gas leak if you hire a reputable serviceman to install your appliance and hook it up to the gas line for you. Contact your local gas company and they can probably tell you who they would recommend to install your appliance correctly. The last safety concern is carbon monoxide poisoning, if you are using natural gas. If the gas doesn't burn completely it can cause carbon monoxide poisoning, so you should get a range hood installed that vents to the outside. Also, it isn't a bad idea to get a carbon monoxide detector in your kitchen as well.

Friday, May 20, 2011

How a Refrigerator Works

Happy Friday readers! Here is a quick posting about how your refrigerator works. I hope you like it, have a great weekend!

Back in the olden days, before modern refrigeration techniques, people used different methods to preserve their food. Pickling, salting, and canning were common ways to keep food for longer periods of time. But now we have a fancy piece of technology called a refrigerator which allows us to keep our food fresher, longer. In this posting I will explain how a refrigerator works.

The first thing you need to know about refrigeration is the Second Law of Thermodynamics which states: "When two surfaces of different temperatures come in contact with each other, the surface that is at higher temperature cools and the surface at lower temperature warms." Also, another principle to know is that as gas expands it gets colder in temperature. So now that you understand that, let's move on and I'll explain the different parts of a refrigerator and how they work.

The first part you should know about is the refrigerant; this is the part of the refrigerator that is used for cooling. In older styles of refrigerators Freon was used, now the refrigerant is usually ammonia or HFC's. As the liquid refrigerant changes its temperature and pressure it results in keeping the refrigerator cold. The refrigerant evaporates at a low temperature and that helps keep your fridge cool. Next I'll tell you about the evaporator; basically all it does is absorb heat from inside the refrigerator. There are also heating coils that encompass the entire back of the refrigerator, they carry the refrigerant throughout the machine. The compressor is a heavy piece of metal that is powered by a motor, and its function is to raise the pressure of the refrigerant and in doing so, increasing the temperature of it. The condenser condenses the vaporized refrigerant, converts it into liquid, and lowers its temperature. The expansion valve is a thin copper wire which reduces the pressure of the refrigerant in its liquid state. Next I'll explain the process of how a refrigerator works while it's running.

Refrigerators have a cycle that changes the pressure, temperature, and state of matter of the refrigerant, and here is how it works. The refrigerant as a gas starts out going through the compressor, as the gas is compressed it increases in temperature and pressure, and here it becomes a heated vapor. Next, the refrigerant passes through the heating coils that surround the refrigerator, as heat is released the temperature of the refrigerant decreases due to heat loss. Now the refrigerant passes through the condenser, again reducing its temperature. The pressure though, remains the same and then the refrigerant returns again to its liquid state. As it now passes through the expansion valve, it reduces the pressure of that refrigerant, causing some of it to evaporate and expand; yet again reducing its temperature. During this evaporation the refrigerant is present in the evaporator and it absorbs the heat from the food inside the refrigerator, cooling it. Aka: The Second Law of Thermodynamics. Next the refrigerant heats up again to its gaseous state and the cycle then repeats.

In conclusion, I hope this article has helped you understand more about how your refrigerator works!


-Balcums

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

How to Replace a Whirlpool / Kenmore Dryer Belt

If your dryer belt shows signs of wear and tear, it's probably time for you to replace it. This common issue is quite an easy fix, and in this post I'll let you know just how to do it!

Learning how to replace your dryer belt can help save you money. You don’t have to be a do-it-yourselfer to put on a new dryer belt. It is quite a common repair, and you’ll only need a few tools to do it. You’ll need: Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, 5/16th socket or nut driver, and a small container for the screws. This article will explain how to replace a Whirlpool / Kenmore dryer belt, for the models with the lint filter on top.

If your dryer has the lint filter on the top, here is the way to replace the belt. The first thing you should always do before performing repairs on any appliance is unplug the unit from power. Not doing so could result in severe damages to yourself and your appliance. Slide out your lint filter, and remove the two screws that are exposed. Next, take your putty knife and slide it under the top of the dryer, pop up the top by lifting up on the left and right corners on the front of the dryer. Then lift up the top, flip it back, and prop it on a wall if you can.

Now that the inside of the dryer is exposed, you will need to remove the front panel to get to the belt. There are two screws you need to remove to take off the front panel, and they are located on the left and right inside corners. Once the screws are taken out, you can lift off the front of the dryer. Sometimes you’ll need to remove the door switch to completely remove the front.

Now you can remove your old belt. You may need another person to help you to hold up the drum for this part. Take out your new belt, and place it over the drum with the grooves touching the drum, make sure it is not twisted otherwise it will just fall off once you start your machine. Next, you’ll need to get under the drum where the motor and pulley are located. The belt will need to go through the pulley, and attached to the motor shaft. If this was done correctly, the pulley will apply tension to the belt.

Now you’re done with the installation of your new dryer belt. And to finish you’ll need to re-assemble your dryer. When you put back the front panel of your machine, make sure the tabs on the bottom are lined up with the panel itself, it should just snap into place. Replace the screws on the inside right and left corners, then flip the top of the dryer back down. This should also snap back into place. Then just put back the screws on the top where the lint filter goes, and slide the lint trap in. The last thing is to plug in your dryer, and you’ll be back in business.

I hope this helped you learn how to replace a Whirlpool / Kenmore dryer belt!
If you have any other questions feel free to comment, or call us at (715) 392-4808.
-Balcums

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Why You Should Consider Buying a Used Appliance Part

Happy Wednesday! Here's a new post for you explaining why you should buy a used appliance part.

Why buy used appliance parts? First of all, it is environmentally friendly to purchase recycled items. Second, it is cost-effective to do so. Lastly, they can be just as reliable as new parts; particularly considering how cheaply new parts are made these days. In this article I’ll explain further the benefits of buying used appliance parts.
So the first reason why to buy used appliance parts is to be environmentally friendly. With landfills rising higher and higher, why not purchase something recycled instead of adding to the problem? Understanding why to purchase a recycled appliance part can help the environment as well as your pocketbook.
The second reason why to buy used appliance parts is because it’s frugal to do so! With the U.S. economy going further downhill, why not save some cash and buy a used appliance part? Buying a small used part such as a switch might not save you a fortune, but consider this situation. Let’s say you have a repairman come out to your house to fix your washer. You pay him to come over and find out what the problem is, usually by the hour. Then he tells you that the motor is shot, well, you are probably looking at 100-200 dollars or more by buying a new motor. That doesn’t even include the cost of installation and other show up fees. Or you could learn how to install a motor by researching it online, and buying a used motor (which comes with a warranty usually) for half the price.
Another quick tip for used appliance parts is to do your research about the seller and the part that you want. Make sure they verify you are getting the correct part; you will usually need your model number for that. You should only buy used parts from sellers that offer warranties with their parts, just in case. Look for sellers who include pictures and other detailed information about their parts. Beware of low-quality used appliance parts; you may have to replace them after only a few months. So in essence, only buy from trusted dealers. (If you’re on eBay, just look at the seller’s feedback.)
My last reason why to buy used appliance parts is because they can be just as reliable as new parts. I’ll tell you why. Companies are trying to save money these days by creating their parts using cheaper materials. Most of the parts that used to be made of metal are now made with hard plastic or other cheap materials. This can cause the part to wear out faster, meaning you’ll have to replace it more often. Sometimes you can’t circumvent this problem, but that’s the main reason why I would purchase a used appliance part instead of new.
In summary, purchasing a used appliance part can help save you money, the environment, and they also can be more reliable.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Dryer Maintenance Tips

Well, spring cleaning time is just around the corner. (At least for us, it's still snowing in April!) With that, every year you should clean your appliances to keep them in good shape, and running smoothly. Here are some tips for dryer maintenance.


It's important to keep your dryer in tip top shape, both for performance reasons and also because if you don't keep your dryer clear of lint it could cause a fire. In this article I will explain some simple dryer maintenance tips, so you can be sure that your dryer won't become a fire hazard. The only tools you need are: a flashlight, a vent brush, and a vacuum with a small hose attachment.

The first dryer maintenance tip I have for you is to clean out your dryer venting pipe and duct. This is important to do at least once a year - or more if your dryer is used frequently. All you should need to do is unclamp the venting pipe from the duct and either vacuum out or poke out the clog. Don't try to push the clogged lint back into your dryer, though. You can also use what is called a vent brush, it has lots of bristles that trap and collect the lint and dust on the inside of your dryer venting. It is a handy tool to have, especially since you should be cleaning out the venting of your dryer at least once a year.

The second dryer maintenance tip I have is to clean out the interior of your clothes dryer. Most of the time the lint that comes off your clothes is collected in the lint filter, but sometimes it can collect inside the dryer. All your really need to do is take a flashlight and see if you have any lint accumulation on the inside of your dryer. If you do, you can use a vacuum to suck it out.

The third tip to maintain your dryer is to clean the lint filter. You probably already know that you should be cleaning off the lint filter after every load. You should also be inspecting the filter itself for any cracks, tears, or holes. If your lint filter is damaged, or has any tears you should replace it. Sometimes dirt and soap can stick to the filter, which easily comes off with warm water, soap, and a toothbrush.

The last dryer maintenance tip is to clean the space under the lint filter. Usually lint filters do a good job at... you guessed it - filtering lint. But sometimes lint and other debris can get stuck in the area under the lint filter. Basically all you need to do is clean out that space with your vacuum.

Well, that's basically all you'll need to do to keep your dryer in peak performance. But there is one last thing to check. If you do notice that your dryer has a lot of lint buildup you might want to hire a repair man to take a look at your machine and to clean the inner components as well.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Tips To Help Fix a Dryer That Won't Heat

Hello Readers! I apologize for not updating sooner, but my family and I were on vacation down in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, it was wonderful. So now we are all ready to get back to work, and I have a new little article just for you. I hope it is helpful!

If your dryer will not heat then hopefully this article will help you. I will give you a few tips on how to fix it. Over the years I have learned these solutions as once I was asking myself "why won't my dryer heat?" Then I started working with people that work on appliances and I learned a whole lot of tips and solutions for fixing appliances. It is a benefit to know all of these tips and how to’s because to have a repair man come out to fix your machine can be quite costly.

There could be a number of reasons why your dryer won't heat. But first, you have to find out if your dryer is electric or gas. With electric dryers, they run on a separate circuit breaker, so make sure that is on. Turn it off and then turn it back on and then go try your dryer to see if it will heat. Say your dryer still does not heat; then you will need a continuity tester. Usually all dryers have a thermal fuse in the exhaust path. According to what dryer you have depends if the fuse will be found towards the front or back. If you have a back panel on your dryer then most likely that is where it will be. They are just about 1" in size and you will see where the spots are for continuity testing.

There will also likely be another thermal fuse that can cause your dryer to not heat and it is located outside the heater housing assembly. These also need to be tested with the continuity tester. So after you checked all of these options and you are still wondering "why my dryer won't heat?" then the next most common problem can be the heating element. All electric dryer elements are made of metal coils on some form of a frame with two contact points which is where the wires plug into. If one of the coils is broken then it will not heat your dryer and you will need a new heat element.

For those of you that have a gas dryer- and are wondering "why won't my dryer heat"? - well, gas dryers run on a burner system. There are a few parts that can fail and cause your dryer to not heat. But some you can replace by testing them and others you have to just decide to do it or not. With gas dryers not just a continuity tester is needed to test; you will need a good ohm meter. When your dryer starts hot but finishes cold then you could have some bad coils. They energize to keep the gas valves open. But the valves are one of the things that you are not able to test so you have to replace them. If your dryer never heats, then try the igniter first. Disconnect the clear plastic connector which has attached the igniter to the burner circuit. Disconnect and put your probes on the igniter side. After that the meter has to be under 100 ohms of resistance because anything higher means you need to replace the igniter. But if the igniter is good then the last thing to check is the flame sensor. If you don't have continuity then it needs to be replaced; it's that simple. One more thing: make sure you clean out your vent because if that is full of lint then that can cause your dryer to slow down on heating and also cause a fire.

Ok, well I hope the information I have provided has helped you. There is nothing else that I can let you know at this point. If your dryer does not work after trying all of these options then it's time to call a repairman.

I hope this helped you! Thank you for reading, and have a fantastic weekend!
-Balcum

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Do You Have a Washer That Won't Drain?

If you are having problems with your washer, and it won't drain, here is a troubleshooting article that will help you find out why. We're here to help you figure out, and hopefully fix your problem yourself, without having to cash out the big bucks to hire a repair man.

The first thing you can check is the plug. Is the washer still plugged in? I know, I know, it might sound stupid but sometimes washers “walk” out from the wall and become unplugged from the outlet. If it’s not, shine a flashlight on it and check for burns or breaks in the wiring. If you discover any burns or breaks, unplug the machine to prevent an electrical fire, and call your repairman to replace the cord.

If that’s not the issue, here’s another tip on how to fix a washer that won’t drain. You should check to see if the load is unbalanced. Sometimes a washer will just stop if there is more weight on one side than the other. Most times it will thump around a bit if it is unbalanced, if that is the case just evenly distribute the clothes around the agitator, and see if your washer will start then. If it starts “walking” then grab a pair of pliers and a level, place the level on top of the washer and adjust the leveling legs underneath the washer. If that still doesn’t work, then move on to step three.

Here’s the third tip on how to fix a washer that won’t drain: check the drain hose in the back of the washer. Look at the hose and see if it has any kinks in it, if there are, straighten them out. Also you’ll need to check for any objects inside the hose, to do that, unclamp the hose from the washer and shine a flashlight inside. (Remember to have a five-gallon bucket handy because there will be water!) If there is a clog in the hose, you can remove the hose from the washer and spray the blockage out with a garden hose. If the hose is blocked by a piece of clothing take a clothes hanger, unbend it, and poke the clothing out the end of the hose. Re-attach the hose to the back of the machine, and see if it drains.

Now, if there was no clog at all in your drain hose, then the next thing to do is check the pump. You’ll need a screwdriver and perhaps a volt meter for this part. Unscrew the back panel off of your washer using the screwdriver and locate the pump. It is usually found on the bottom right side or left side on the interior of the machine. Take your volt meter and test the pump for continuity, if it does not generate any electrical flow you will need to replace your pump. Tip: If you are replacing the pump yourself remember to first unplug the machine from the wall before you start. Otherwise you’ll be in for a shock! (Pun intended.)

If none of these tips on how to fix a washer that won’t drain work for you, there is another thing you can try before you have to cash out the big bucks for a service man. Find the model number of your machine, and contact a parts dealer and they can help you troubleshoot your appliance from there.
So feel free to give us a jingle at 715-392-4808 and you can speak with a technician and further troubleshoot from there. Thanks for reading!

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Store Hours Have Changed!

Just so everyone knows we are no longer open on Sunday. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause.
FYI: Our normal business hours are 9-5 Monday through Friday* (CST).

* We close at 4:00 P.M. on Friday during November through January in honor of the Sabbath.
Thanks for your understanding!
Have a lovely rest of the week!
:)

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Looking for a Quality, Used Appliance?

If you are in the market for a used appliance, check out our eBay store. We have all of our appliances that are for sale listed up there! It's pretty sweet, if you'd like to take a peek just visit eBay.com and search Balcum Appliance. Look for the "appliances for sale" category and feel free to browse! :)
If you have any questions about our appliances, parts, or just want to say hello, please feel free to call us at (715) 392-4808, or email help@balcum.com
We'd be more than happy to hear from you! :)

Also, I'd like to mention our favorite website for looking up appliance repair information, and handy how-to guides (if you're a do-it-yourselfer appliance repair, or part install person). We recommend visiting http://www.applianceaid.com. You'll definitely want to bookmark that page!
Thank you for reading, and we will have a new update for you all next Wednesday. Have a splendid week everyone!
-Balcum

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Update!

Hello readers! I apologize for not updating our blog as frequently as I would like! I'd like to tell you about some new changes that we have started.
First of all, we have lowered our price of electronics recycling to $.25 per pound!
Secondly, we lowered the price of household appliance recycling to $10.00 per item now.
And last but not least, we are no longer doing household or in-shop service/repairs.
If you are looking to get your appliance repaired, call our store during our business hours and we will give you the number of a technician we highly recommend. Our phone number is (715) 392-4808.
If you have any questions about any of these changes, you can call us. Or e-mail help@balcum.com and we will be more than happy to help you!
If you would like to download a .pdf version of our updated recycling pricing guide you can visit www.balcum.com and it's under the 'recycling' tab.
Well, I thank you for taking a peek at our blog this week. I will now be updating it every Thursday. So make sure to visit if you want to get the scoop on what's happening!
Thanks for reading, have a great rest of the week!
-Balcums